Scotland

A great many people bring to mind remoteness and wilderness when asked what they know of the Outer Hebrides. Some even think the place rather backward, rather like a third world country, without electricity and many of the basics of western society. It is surprising how few people realise that the Outer Hebrides are a group of islands off the west coast of Scotland and, as well as having electricity and all the modern comforts they also have broadband connections and even, in the main town of Stornoway, a fibre optics network. Although remote and certain areas, such as the large open moors on the Isle of Lewis, the wilderness that is the Outer Hebrides consists of a diverse, and always breathtaking, countryside.

It is often true that where there is great hardship there also exists a great sense of humor and in the Outer Hebrides this is certainly the case. For many centuries the average working Hebridean faced a summer of hard work and a bleak, dark and hard winter. Towards the end of the nineteenth century a crisis had developed between those who owned the land and those who actually lived off it. During a period known as the clearances many folk were forced from their land and either moved to poorer ground or shipped abroad so that the rich landowners could turn the land over to sheep or hunting. Even though the system known as crofting only gave the crofter sufficient land to eke out a meagre living/subsistence, the demand for crofts and security of tenure reached fever pitch. Only with the outbreak of World War One was the situation relieved, simply because an enormous number of islanders enlisted. However upon their return, at the end of the war, the problem soon resurfaced as the men had been made promises of land as they joined up.

In 1918 the Isle of Lewis had been purchased by Lord Leverhulme (of Lever Bros.) who was determined to change the fortunes of the island by investing heavily in the fishing and associated industries. Everything was black and white with Leverhulme and he certainly had a brilliant commercial mind but rather than understand the society around him he sought to change it. His new industries would require a large workforce which he had assumed would automatically appear from within the realms of the poor, landless, classes on the Isle of Lewis. He totally failed to understand the deeply independent nature of the Hebridean soul and rather than turn his large farms over to crofting he had grand plans to create massive diary farms to supply the town of Stornoway with constant fresh milk (which was having to be imported).

Leverhulme refused to budge an inch and the Lewis crofter refused to back away from his rightful claim for land previously promised. In the end the patience of some islander broke and some areas of land were taken forcefully. After several confrontations between the crofters and the authorities it looked as though the situation had reached a stalemate. In a list ditch attempt to change the people’s minds and gain their support Leverhulme set off from Stornoway to attend a large meeting of the islanders. Upon arriving he started one of his famous speeches about the many benefits that would be gained for the working man if they would only do things his way. Leverhulme faced strong opposition and was forced to accept that some members of the crowd were highly intellectual  and the arguments against were much stronger than he had anticipated.  The main arguments against were few but simple, all that was wanted had been promised and was therefore right and the Hebridean would rather work hard and live in a lower standard of living than become a ‘wage slave’.

In a typical fashion Lord Leverhulme responded with one of his most spectacular speeches ever given and a sense of pride appeared to show as it began to appear that he was winning the day. The crowd began to grow excited and there was much applause and, by the end of his oratory wonder the crowd erupted into a mass of cheering and clapping. Leverhulme stepped down from his makeshift stand (he was rather a short man) and headed off back, to Lews Castle in Stornoway, believing that he now had the full support of the populous. Unfortunately he was mistaken. When a reporter asked one of the locals why they had given such a fantastic response to his speech the reply was rather surprising but also amusing. Apparently the skill of being a good orator is highly respected in the Gaelic culture which can be seen by the high esteem in which the title of Bard is held. Though there had been many fine speeches made throughout the discussions Lord Leverhulme’s was quickly recognized for it’s greatness and it was that, rather than the intended message, that the crowd were applauding. So, by the end of the day, both parties were still in the exact same position as they were at the start.  For once in his incredible life Leverhulme had totally misjudged the situation, the Lewis folk had kindly applauded him for his splendid speech and for their fear of offending him which he had judged as support for his schemes. Sadly, very soon after these events, other external forces forced Leverhulme to step away from the Isle of Lewis to concentrate on the Isle of Harris which he had purchased shortly after Lewis – but that is another story.

If you want to read more interesting or amusing stories about the Outer Hebrides take a wander over to the Virtual Hebrides. If you are planning a vacation to the islands take a look at Lewis Bed and Breakfast where you will find lots of accommodation. Another upcoming site is Enjoy Hebrides which shows promise.